The hatted chef John Evans talks about his hyper-local food philosophy, and the simple joy in finding a bag of fresh produce on the door of the restaurant from a local farmer.
The food world’s obsession with finding a hyper-local product that jumps off the plate for a customer, is the approach that John Evans, head chef at South on Albany in Berry, has been using to his food for years.
Open since 2013, John says his food ethos for South on Albany hasn’t changed much in that time. “I cook food that is ultimately delicious and you want to eat it!” This simple yet strong philosophy to his craft has seen John be awarded with a hat from the Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide. With only nine restaurants from Shoalhaven Heads to Narooma being awarded hats in 2024, it shows the calibre of dish that John is serving up.
Never content to sit on his hands, John has a fortnightly menu that is dictated by seasonality and hyper-local availability. “I am inspired by the fresh local produce grown around Berry that is brought in by local farmers,” he said. “This may form a part of a dish or the whole thing, depending on what else is available and delicious for my customers.”
It is these strong relationships that John and Sonia Greig (wife and co-owner) have built over their time in the restaurant that they are most proud of. Regularly, John will arrive at the kitchen to find a bag of local produce hanging on the door.
“This is where my fun begins, my creative juices flow as I think how can I use this beautiful produce today or this week in my menus,” he said. When I hear a chef talk as passionately as John does about his craft, I know I am in for a good meal.
The relationship between John and Sonia is a cornerstone in the life of restaurant owners. Sonia complements the amazing food with her extensive hospitality knowledge and attention to detail. She provides service that is warm, attentive and welcoming. The duo have all aspects covered, ensuring that a high class meal is delivered in a relaxed atmosphere, with their website describing it as “city slick dining with a country vibe”.
The pursuit of flavour and quality underpins their work in each of their elegant yet simple dishes. A fortnightly menu means diners eat what is fresh, what is local and inspires them to visit again and again to discover what John is crafting as the seasons change. The fortnightly menu concept has been in place for three years and John said the biggest challenge that he feels he manages well is “keeping the ideas different and new for the guests who keep coming back”. “Seeing the excitement on those regular guests’ faces when they try something new is what continues to inspire me along with great produce.”
When I pressed John about what produce he was looking forward to working with in Spring, he was unable to single anything out in particular. This mindset allows him to be in the moment of what is fresh and available to create something delicious. “I am looking forward to those green vegetables that we don’t see as much over winter such as asparagus, zucchini flowers and peas.”
For those readers who enjoy a good glass (or bottle) of wine, John and Sonia have you covered. Their wine list has been recognised twice in the Australian Wine List of the Year Awards in 2022 and 2023. They offer a paired drinks menu that is carefully matched to the fortnightly menu to elevate the experience. John said he also takes inspiration for his menu from the Shoalhaven region’s fantastic wineries, breweries and distilleries.
If you are considering dining at South on Albany, you can expect to see John’s philosophy to food shine through. “My philosophy is to create good, honest, real food with a focus on flavour, the highest standard of presentation and above all truly delicious food you want to come back for,” he said. I suggest you add freshly shucked South Coast oysters to your meal, paired drinks from a wine menu recognised in the industry and above all, delicious food that will leave you satisfied and planning your next visit to Berry.
This story is published in conjunction with the Shoalhaven Food Network, showcasing the place, plate and face of food and hospitality in the region. Each month we will publish a story spotlighting one of the incredible growers, producers and venues that provide outstanding food, beverage and customer service to our locals and visitors alike.
