We talk to Hika Rountree to discover the story behind Jervis Bay’s oysters ahead of International Oyster Day next week on Tuesday 5 August and take a closer look at what makes these briny beauties so sought after.
Along the sparkling waters of Jervis Bay, oysters grow in harmony with blue lip mussels, nurtured by South Coast Mariculture’s careful hand.
At the centre of it all is local kiwi legend Hika Rountree, Marine Operations Manager, whose experience and passion help bring some of the freshest shellfish in Australia to our plates. South Coast Mariculture also partners with Blue Harvest, one of the country’s largest marketers of locally grown prawns, mussels and oysters.
We caught up with Hika to understand what goes into growing these ocean-finished oysters and why they have such a distinctive taste. The juveniles, also known in the oyster world as spat (which is not a very endearing term for something so little that will grow up to be so delicious) or oyster seeds are sourced from trusted growers with long-standing reputations.
Hika shares, “Our Sydney Rock Oyster juveniles come from Shane Buckley at Wapengo Rocks, while our Pacifics are from Goodnight Oysters in Greenwell Point and Oyster Life on the Clyde River at Batemans Bay.”
These young oysters are 30 to 50mm in size when they arrive and are then transferred to be ocean-finished at South Coast Mariculture’s farms. The Pacifics head south to the clean, open waters of Twofold Bay in Eden, while Sydney Rocks are grown exclusively within the Jervis Bay Marine Park, where only this native species is permitted.
So, what exactly does “ocean-finished” mean? Unlike many oysters raised in sheltered estuaries or river mouths, ocean-finished oysters spend their growing years fully immersed in open, clean ocean waters. This constant exposure to fresh, flowing seawater means the oysters feed continuously on natural plankton, resulting in a cleaner, crisper flavour with a distinct mineral freshness that sets them apart from their estuarine cousins.
By the time they reach market size, around 60 to 80mm, the oysters have taken on the unique character of Jervis Bay’s pristine environment. Hika points out, “They feed 24/7 here, which creates a cleaner, crisper, mineral-rich flavour that’s less muddy than oysters grown in estuaries.”
Strict water quality and safety standards guide the farm’s operations. NSW leads the way in shellfish monitoring programs, including the NSW Shellfish Program and the Sustainable Oyster Assessment Program (SOAP). These initiatives track water quality, oyster growth, and environmental health, with real-time sensors keeping a close eye on salinity and E. coli levels. This careful monitoring ensures that only the best, safest oysters reach consumers.
South Coast Mariculture also works hand in hand with the NSW Department of Primary Industries, local community groups and businesses, maintaining sustainability throughout every step from lease planning to daily farm operations. The farm employs a polyculture approach, growing mussels, oysters, scallops and seaweed together to mimic a natural reef ecosystem. This not only boosts biodiversity but also helps maintain water quality and reduces environmental stress.
The oysters are raised in Australian-made Seapa baskets fitted into specially designed floats and frames from New Zealand, allowing them to grow fully submerged in ocean water 24/7 – unlike traditional intertidal farming where oysters dry out daily. The Aqua 360 float system even allows baskets to be flipped out of the water overnight to strengthen the oysters’ muscles naturally and help control biofouling – the unwelcome build-up of algae and barnacles.
We asked Hika if these oysters would be classified as organic? Though not officially certified organic, the farm’s methods keep human interference to a minimum. “We simply place rope in the water and let nature take its course.”
Oyster growth varies by species: Sydney Rocks take up to three years to reach full maturity while Pacific Oysters can be ready in as little as nine months. Yet harvesting is never rushed. “Even if the water is open, we wait until the oysters are fat and in peak condition,” says Hika.
Once harvested and processed, Jervis Bay oysters are distributed to selected Woolworths stores from their distribution centre located in Minchinbury, a suburb of Sydney. This ensures fresh ocean-finished oysters are available to customers beyond the South Coast region.
Recent rainfall has paused harvesting temporarily, but thousands of Sydney Rock Oysters remain in the water, patiently growing until water quality and oyster condition meet the farm’s standards once again.
When asked how he likes to enjoy oysters, Hika’s answer is simple: “Natural, cracking them open straight from my boat,’ you get to taste the ocean and the oyster at its freshest. There’s no better way to have them.
Jim Wild’s Oysters in Greenwell Point
Relationships play a crucial role in maintaining both quality and reliability. Among the farm’s trusted network is Jim Wild’s Oysters in Greenwell Point, now led by Jim’s daughter, Sally McLean.
A well-respected figure in the local industry, Sally was recently named Australia’s Women’s Oyster Shucking Champion at the 2025 Narooma Oyster Festival. Hika credits her not only as a supplier but also as someone who’s stepped in to support the team during busy times, sharing her shucking skills and knowledge with younger staff during busy periods.
Jim Wild’s Oysters is a long-standing family-run farm known for its exceptional produce and impressive shucking pedigree. Founder Jim Wild once held the world record for fastest oyster opener: 30 oysters in just 2 minutes and 31 seconds, achieved in Galway, Ireland.
The farm is currently closed for a short winter break, with plans to reopen on Tuesday 9 August. While Sally was unavailable for interview during this time, the farm remains a standout destination, just a short drive from Jervis Bay and offering a true farm-gate experience with fresh oysters, outdoor seating and views over the Crookhaven River.
